Video resolution and image quality. Look for stable 4K recording, especially for the front camera. It may seem like overkill, but given the ultra wide angle used by most dash cameras, more pixels usually means a clearer image and sharper rendering of details and small text like license plate numbers. That said, there’s more to image quality than just resolution. I’ve gotten excellent performance from 2K (1440p) dash cams. You’ll also want to pay attention to things like frame rate (higher frames per second mean less motion blur and improved clarity), image compression and post-processing like high dynamic range (HDR) that can improve night vision performance.
Camera configuration. Nearly all dash cams record the “over the hood” forward view with a camera pointing out of the windshield. However, many now feature multi-channel functionality with support for recording from additional cameras at the rear of the vehicle or in the cabin. A rear camera might capture someone tailgating before you’re rear-ended. If you’re a rideshare driver, you may also want a view of the people in the cabin with you. Knowing how many and where you want cameras to be is important, but if you’re not sure, consider a modular system, like the VIOFO A229 Pro, that can be upgraded later.
Storage and loop recording. Almost no dash cams come standard with internal storage, so you’ll want to factor in the cost of a micro SD card. My advice: Get the biggest card that fits your budget. Dash cams capture using a continuously looped recording. When the card fills up, the oldest clips are overwritten. A bigger SD card means a longer buffer before that old footage is lost forever. Good, high-capacity microSD cards are cheap (around $20 for a reputable 256GB), and with many dash cams writing multiple 4K and 2K streams with large file sizes, you’ll be grateful for the space.
Accelerometer or G-force sensor. You can usually lock recorded segments manually with the touch of a button, saving them from being lost forever. But if you’ve just been in a car accident, reaching over to your dash cam is probably the last thing on your mind. The best dash cams feature internal accelerometers or G-force sensors that detect bumps or impacts and automatically lock the current segment, saving the event from being overwritten. Detecting g-forces means you’ll sometimes get false positives going over big bumps or potholes, so if you drive a car with a firm ride, look for a dash cam that has an adjustable g-force threshold (or at least check your SD card regularly to ensure it doesn’t fill up with “events.”
GPS logging and speed tracking. Our three top picks all feature built-in GPS antennas that allow the dash cams to sync the vehicle’s speed and location with the captured footage. This can be useful, for example, to beat a speeding ticket with video evidence or provide precise positioning information in the event of an accident. Beyond just latitude and longitude, these dash cams also feature smartphone apps that can plot that GPS data on a map, so you’ll be able to look back on exactly where you were when a captured event happened.
Mounting system and installation. Scrutinize the mount. All dash cams come with some way to mount, usually to your car’s windshield. However, mounting methods can vary. Some use simple suction cup mounts that are easy to remove. Others use strong adhesive mounts for the most stable connection. (Trust me, the last thing you want is for your new dash cam to become a projectile during an accident.) The mounting hardware may also include a GPS antenna, a quick-release mechanism for times when you want to quickly remove the camera from the car or both, like the Vantrue E1 Pro. These factors determine if a cam is easy to move from car to car, if it’s going to be big and ungainly, or whether it may block more of your view and potentially run afoul of your local laws on dash cam mounting.
Power cables (12V, USB or hardwire). Every dash cam needs a power cable and, besides being a safety hazard, nothing looks worse than a cord dangling from your windshield to the 12-volt outlet in the dash. That’s why the best dash cams come with a power cable that’s long enough to route around your windshield and dashboard — leaving a clear view of the road — and hardware to tuck that cord into or behind your vehicle’s trim. Many dash cams can also be hardwired (either with included hardware or accessories), freeing up the 12-volt outlet or USB ports for other uses and enabling advanced features like parked car monitoring.
Lithium-ion or supercapacitor. During shutdown or in situations where the power is abruptly cut — such as during a major collision — a dash cam needs to be a few moments of unplugged power to prevent the final clip from being corrupted. The best dash cams make use of a supercapacitor for this Supercapacitors are preferable due to their improved reliability and resistance to extreme temperatures. Mid-tier cams use small lithium-ion batteries, which I’d avoid if you regularly experience Arizona summers, while the cheapest camera sometimes has no shutdown battery at all.
Wi-Fi, app and cloud connectivity. The simplest way to get the footage off of your dash cam is to remove the camera (or just the SD card) and connect it to a computer. However, many newer cameras now ship with wireless connectivity that enables simpler (and sometimes even automatic) file transfers. A wireless connection is usually slower than wired, so my top picks feature fast Wi-Fi. Many dash cams can also connect to smartphone apps for easier adjustment of settings on a larger screen, enhanced functionality like GPS mapping or trip logging and retrieving and sharing video clips. The most advanced cameras can even be upgraded with LTE data connections to enable remote monitoring of the vehicle while parked or automatic uploads of captured events, but that usually requires additional hardware and for you to bring your own data SIM.
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